Method of and apparatus for opening seams



March 3, 1936. Q Q CUTLER 2,032,918

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR OPENING SEAMS Filed July '7, 1935 4Sheets-Sheet l Pig-l l 1&1 ELE.

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INVENTOR,

A TTORNEYA Mach 3, 1936. C. Q CUTLER 2,032,918

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR OPENING SEAMS Filed July '7, 1933 4Sheets-Sheet 2 l N VEN TOR.

ATTORNEY March 3, 1936. C. Q CUTLER 2,032,918

METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR OPENING SEAMS Filed July 7, 1935 4Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR.

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A TTORNE Y.

March 3, 1936.

C. C. CUTLER METHOD OF AND APPARATUS FOR OPENING SEAMS Filed July '7,1933.

4SheetS-Sheet 4 NVENTOR.

Char/es @uf/er A TTORNE Y.

Patented Mar. 3, 1936 UNITED STES YPATENT FFICE METHOD F AND APPARATUSFOR OPENING SEAMS 15 Claims.

My invention relates to methods of and apparatus for opening seams.

In accordance with my invention, the seam formed by stitching the edgesof two layers of material is opened by effecting engagement of a face ofat least one layer of the material with la surface having a component ofmotion transversely oi the material, i. e. substantially normal to theline of stitching whereby a portion of the layer adjacent the seam isturned into the plane of the other layer of the material; morespecifically and in accordance with one form of my invention, theopposite faces are brought into contact with conveying surfaces whosepaths diverge in the direction of feed to bring the seam to one side ofthe material.

My invention also resides in the features of construction, combinationand arrangement herelinafter described and claimed.

For an understanding of my invention, reference is to be had to theaccompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a plan view with parts in sectionand parts broken away of aseam-opening and pressing attachment;

Fig. 1a is a detail view, in plan, showing the relation of partsappearing in Figs. 1 and 2;

Fig. 2 is a side elevational View of mechanism shown in Fig. 1;

Fig. 3 is a detail View on an enlarged lscale taken on line 3-3 of Fig.1;

Fig. 4 is a detail View on an enlarged scale taken on line 4--4 of Fig.1;

Fig. 5 is an end View of parts shown in Fig. 3 as viewed in thedirection of the arrow;

Fig. 5a is a detail view in perspective of parts yshown in Figs. 3 and5;

Fig. 6 in perspective and on enlarged scale vshows parts appearing inFig. 1;

Fig. 6a is a detail View in end elevation of parts shown in Fig. 6;

Figs. 7, 8 and 9 are plan, side and end elevational views respectivelyof a. pressing member shown in Fig. 1 with parts in section in Figs. '7and 8;

Fig.'10 illustrates a modified form of moistening device;

Fig. 11 is a detail View of a feeding finger;

.'Fig, 12 illustrates va modified conveyor construction;

Fig. 13 is a side elevational Viewv of Fig. 12;

Fig. 13a. is a detail View of a linger of thecon- .veyor of Figs. 12 and13;

Fig. 13b is a side elevational viewof parts. ap- Peallng in Fg 135 Fig.14 is a plan view of another type of seam opening mechanism;

Fig. 15 is a side elevational view of Fig. 14;

Fig. 16 is an end elevational view of parts shown in Figs. 14 and 15;

Figs. 17 and 18 are plan and end elevational views, respectively, of afurther modification;

Fig. 19 is a plan View illustrating formation and opening of a seam;

Figs. 19a to 19h are side elevational views taken 10 on lines A to H ofFig. 19 to show the successive steps.

Referring to Fig. l, the bracket I suitably see cured to the base 2 of asewing machine carries the upper conveyor 3, the lower conveyor 4, and15 the pressing member 5. The conveyors are driven in timed relation tothe sewing machine by the ratchet 6 who-se pawl l is carried by arm Sconnecte-d by link 9 to an eccentric pin It rotatable with the handwheel I I o-f the sewing machine.

The driving sprocket I2 of the upper conveyor is connected by theuniversal joint I3 to the shaft I4 to which the ratchet wheel 6 issecured. The lower lift of the upper conveyor, as indicated by thearrow, Fig. 2, moves away from the needle N, i. e. from right to left.The upper lift of the lower conveyor moves in the same general directionand at substantially the same speed. The driving sprocket I5 for thelower conveyor is driven from shaft I6 to which is secured gear Il 30 inmesh with gear I8 secured to shaft I 4.

The upper conveyor is an endless chain from the links of which extendspring ngers I9 each having a tip 2t suitably serrated or roughed. asmost clearly shown in Figs. 11, 3 and 4. As an 35 alternative, thefingers may be hinged or loosely mounted and held in contact with fabricby springs, cams, or any suitable means; the tips may be faced withcarding cloth or the like. As each finger in turn swings around theidler 2I 40 at the receiving end of the conveyor, it drops oi the cam 22so that its tip 29 engages the upper face of the upper layer of cloth orlike material M Which has just passed beneath needle N. The cam 22prevents the tips from engaging the cloth 45 until their faces aresubstantially parallel to the plane of the cloth, otherwise they wouldtend to wrinkle the cloth. The outer edges of the tips of the fingers,as shown in Fig. 1, are in alignment with the line of stitchingindicated by broken line S. Preferably and as illustrated, the upperconveyor pulls the cloth away from the needle at an angle of the orderof 6 degrees to the direction of feed to the needle.

The lower face of the lower layer of the cloth is engaged by the lowerconveyor as most clearly shown in Fig. 3. 'I'he upper faces of the bars23 which extend from the links of the conveyor are also preferablysuitably serrated or roughened. The rows of serrations are preferably sospaced that they alternate with the rows of serrations of the tips 20 ofthe upper conveyor. Moreover, the rows of teeth of the lower conveyorare parallel to each other and to the rows of teeth of the upperconveyor.

Since the conveyors feed the upper and lower layers of cloth indiverging directions, the layers of cloth slide crosswise with respectto each other as the material as a whole is being fed forwardly.Specifically, with the construction described and as illustrated in Fig.4, the line of stitching and that part of the lower surface adjacent itis brought to the top side of the material. If the two layers wereseparate, their edges would simply be slid apart, but since they arestitched together, the original lower layer as it is moved to the rightis peeled off the lower conveyor and turned upwardly and back into theplane of the upper layer, as shown in Fig. 4. Otherwise stated, thelower layer adjacent the seam is folded under the seam. A divergingangle of the order of 8 degrees has been found satisfactory to turn theseam'without undue wrinkling of the material and without undue length ofthe conveyors.

The lower layer of material is fed to the needle beneath the plate 24,Figs. 1 and 6, while the upper layer passes over the plate and beneaththe presser foot 25 of the sewing machine. The edge 26 of the plate 24ts into the bight of the seam, i. e. between the upper and lower seamflaps f1 and is substantially parallel to and slightly spaced from theedges of the finger tips 20 of the upper conveyor Ywhich engage theupper layer of the cloth. As shown most clearly in Fig. 6, theupstanding extension 21 of the plate is curved to rotate the upper flapcounter-clockwise about an axis at or adjacent the line of stitching.The finger 28, which may extend from the presser foot, prevents theupper flap from obstructing the movement of the fingers I9intoengagement with the upper surface of the upper layer near theneedle. It also serves as a form which keeps the flap smooth, as it isbeing turned back, preventing wrinkles which would subsequently beironed in forming undesired creases. The tip of the iron is providedwith a curved surface 29 forming in effect a continuation of the curvedsurface of the extension 2'I which continues the turning back of theupper flap so that it is pressed against the upper face of the fingersI9, Figs. 3 and 4.

Preferably, the plate 24 is resilient or resiliently mounted, and isvibrated by operation of the sewing machine as it is found that by sodoing, the effectiveness of the edge 26 as a guide is enhanced.Specifically, the bracket 30 (Figs. 6 and 6a) is struck by the abutment25a each time the presser foot descends, and through the screw 3| orequivalent imparts movement to the plate 24. Screw 3| also provides foradjustment of the plate with respect to the base 2 to accommodatedifferent thicknesses of material.

The lower ap f1 is pressed by the surface 32 of the iron which is to theright of its nose. This surface also prevents the flap f1 from movingtoward the upper flap during formation of the fold in the material ofthe original lower layer. The two pressing surfaces 32 and 33, thelatter comprising a continuation of surface 29, gradually, in thedirection of feed of the material,

come into a plane substantially parallel to the face of the material topress both flaps of the opened seam.

The pressing member or iron is hollow to receive an electrical heatingunit 34 whose conductors 35 extend through an opening 36 to a source ofcurrent. Any other suitable means of heating may be provided. The flapsare moistened by a brush 3l which transfers a thin film of water tofaces of both flaps particularly adjacent the stitching shortly afterthey pass the nose of the iron. Water may be supplied to the brush by apipe 38 in communication with a passage 39 in the body of the iron, oras shown in Fig. the brush holder 38a may itself be hollow to providefor passage of water to the brush. A set-screw 531 holds the brush inposition and permits its removal and adjustment. In either case, theflow of water may be regulated as by a needle valve, not shown, so thatthe rate of flow is suitably small.

The upper conveyor and the iron are pivotally mounted as on shaft Ia, sothat they can be swung upwardly from the work which can then be readilyremoved by pulling it to the left, Fig. 3, to clear the machine. This ispossible since the device includes no structure inside of the line ofstitching.

The successive steps of stitching the cloth to form a seam, and ofopening and pressing the seam are clearly shown in Figs. 19, 19a. to19h.

As shown in Fig. 2, the discharge end of the upper conveyor extendsbeyond the lower conveyor, so that the material of y its own weighttends to free itself, although supplemental stripping means may beemployed if desirable or necessary.

The mechanism is suited for opening curved seams as well as straightseams, as the fingers I9 temporarily pull the seam straight. Each layermay be a single thickness of cloth or may be of several thicknesses as,for example, when one thickness is of lining material. Y

In the construction described, the fingers I9 of the upper conveyor passbeneath the iron 5 in moving from the needle and return over the irontoward the needle. In the modified type of conveyor shown in Figs. 12and 13 the axes of the sprockets are 'displaced substantially 90 withrespect to the sprocket axes of the prior modification so that thefingers in their return movement do not pass above the iron but turnaway from the iron at the delivery end of the conveyor. A cam 22a holdsthe ngers out of en- A gagement with the cloth until they reach a pointbeyond the presser foot whereupon they drop flatly into engagement withthe cloth for pulling it from the needle by their further movement.

The formation of the seam and the progressive opening and pressingthereof is clearly shown in Figs. 19 and 19a to 19h.. At station A, theedges of the cloth beyond the line of stitching are held separated bythe plate 24. The two flaps of the seam are held separated insubstantially parallel relation by plate 24 as the cloth moves towardand beyond station B. At station C, the cloth behind the line ofstitching has been engaged by a conveyor nger which has dropped off ofcam 22 and plate 21 has partly swung the upper flap of the seam aboutthe line of stitching as the axis. The opening of the seam is continuedby plate 21 due toits shape as the cloth moves toward and beyond stationD. The surface 29 of the iron, in effect a continuation of vet plate 21,continues further to open the seam as the cloth moves toward and beyondstation E and the tip of the iron engages the apex of the seam to beginthe pressing operation. At about station F, the lower conveyor engagesthe under surface of the cloth and due to the divergence of the upperand lower conveyors, the lower and upper layers of the cloth are pulledin opposite directions bringing the seam to the upper side of thematerial as shown in Figs. 19]c to 19h, the opening and pressing of theseam continuing as the cloth moves to and beyond these stations.

In the modification shown in Figs. 14 to 16, the plate 24 is replaced bya comb 40, whose teeth 4I bear against the upper face of the upper layerof the cloth leaving the needle. The brush 43 has rows of bristles whichare revolved between the teeth in clockwise direction, as Viewed in Fig.16, to turn back the upper flap, thus performing the function of thecurved surfaces 21, 28 of the prior modification. The teeth 4l hold thelower iiap from following the turning back of the upper ap. The devicemay be used with the previously described conveyor system or with themodified construction now described.

The lower conveyor comprises the reciprocating feeding bars 44 operatedby the crank 45 or equivalent to effect a motion similar to that of afeed-dog of a sewing machine. The toothed extensions 45a of the bars onthe forward stroke project through openings in the feed table 41 toengage and move the cloth. Above the table, with its axis of rotation onan angle to the `direction of feed of the cloth is a revolving member.48 whose surface is provided with teeth, bristles, or the like, adaptedto engage the upper layer of cloth. This member rotates in the samedirection as brush 43, and serves to slide the upper layer of clothdownwardly as Viewed in Fig. 14, and so pulls the seam to the top sideof the matrial It does not engage the ap f1.

The lower layer is prevented from transverse movement by the stationaryrows of teeth 46, formed on table 41 (Figs. 14 and 15) or alternativelyby a second set of toothed feed bars operating alternately with respectto those illustrated.

The opened seam may be pressed by any suitable ironing surface, or asindicated may pass beneath a heated burnishing roll 49 whose axis ofrotation is preferably normal to the axis of rotation of roll 48, andwhich rotates clockwise as viewed in Fig. 15, to assist in feeding ofthe cloth. It may have one or more teeth 49a. to insure positive feed.

Figs. 17 and 18 illustrate still another arrangement for sliding theupper and lower layers to bring the seam to one side of the material.The fingers 50 are loosely mounted on crank 5| and provided with slots52 engaging a guide bar 53. As the fingers move downwardly as viewed inFigs. 17 and 18, they engage and push the upper layer in the properdirection. At the end of their forward stroke, they are lifted free bythe crank and remain out of engagement with the cloth until the nextforward stroke. Preferably, as shown, the fingers are divided into twogroups, which operate alternately, one group pushing the cloth while theother group is returning from the pushing stroke. This device may beused in lieu of the member 48 of Fig. 14, or if a plate having anextension similar to that of plate 24 is used, it may replace member 48,comb 40 and brush 43.

It is to be understood that my invention is not limited to the specificarrangements disclosed and described but is coextensive in scope withthe appended claims.

For brevity in the appended claims the expression inside of the line ofstitching as used to identify portions of the layers of material is tobe understood as descriptive of the material on the side of the line ofstitching opposite to the flaps of the seam.

What I claim is:

1. The method of opening a seam formed by stitching layers of materialadjacent their edges which comprises turning back the flap o-f one layerextending beyond the line of stitching against said layer, restrainingthe flap of the other layer in substantially its original position withrespect to said rst layer, and sliding said other layei` while inengagement with said first layer in a direction substantially normal tothe line of stitching to form a fold substantially in the plane of saidfirst layer.

2. Mechanism of the character described co-mprising means for stitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges to form a seam, means forfeeding the stitched raterial from said stitching means, and movablemeans beyond said stitching means for -engaging the stitched materialinside of the line of stitching and having a component of motion normalto th-e line of stitching for opening the flaps of the seam.

3. Mechanism of the character described comprising means for stitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges to form a seam, and means forfeeding the stitched material from said stitching means, includingmovable means independent of said feeding means and beyond saidstitching means for engaging the stitched material inside of the line ofstitching and having a component of motion normal to the line ofstitching for opening the flaps of the seam.

4. Mechanism of the character described comprising means for stitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges to form a seam, a pressingdevice, means for feeding the stitched material from said stitchingmeans to said pressing device, and movable structure beyond saidstitching means for engaging the stitched material inside of the line ofstitching and having a component of motion normal to the line ofstitching for opening the aps of the seam for pressing by said device.

5. Mechanism of the character described comprising means for stitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges to form a seam, a pressingdevice, and means for feeding the stitched material from said stitchingmeans to said pressing device including conveyors engaging the layersand movable in paths diverging in the direction of feed o-f the materialto turn the seam onto one side of the material for pressing.

6. Mechanism of the character described comprising means for stitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges to form a seam, spaced fingersholding the stitched material adjacent the seam, and means movablebetween said ngers toengage and turn back one of the seam flaps to openthe seam.

7. Mechanism of the character described comprising means for stitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges to form a seam, spaced iingersholding the stitched material adjacent the seam, means movable betweensaid fingers to engage and turn back one of the seam naps to open theseam, and movable means engaging said material and having a component ofmotion nor-i mal to the line of stitching for turning the opened seamonto one side of the material.

8. Mechanism of the character described comprising means for stitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges toform a seam, means for guidingthe stitched material including a plate entering the bight of theseam,'and means for vibrating said plate. Y

9. Mechanism of the character described comprising means for stitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges to form a seam, a pressingdevice, means for feeding the stitched material to said pressing device,means for moistening the seam for pressing including a brush adapted toengage the regions to be moistened, and means for supplying liquid tosaid brush.

10. Mechanism of the character described comprising means forstitchinglayers of material adjacent their edges to form a seam, a pressingdevice, and means for feeding the stitched material from said stitchingmeans to said pressing device including conveyors engaging the layersand movable in paths diverging in the direction of feed of the materialto turn the seam onto one side of the material for pressing, at leastone of said conveyors being displaceable to permit clearing of themechanism. f

v11. Mechanism for opening tie flaps of a seam formed by stitchingadjacent the edges or" overlying layers of cloth which comprises meansfor feeding the cloth including structures for engaging the oppositefaces of said overlying layers inside and on the same side of the lineof stitching and means for moving at least one of said structures in adirection having a component normal to the direction of feed of thecloth.

12. Mechanism for opening the seam formed by stitching adjacent theedges oi overlying layers of cloth comprising means for feeding thelayers in diverging paths to bring the line of stitching into the planeof one of said layers, means for restraining the seam iiap of the otherlayer in substantially its original plane during said feeding' movement,and means for turning the seam flap of said first layer throughsubstantially 180 during said feeding movement.

13. Mechanism for opening and pressing the seam formed by stitchingadjacent the edges of overlying layers of cloth comprising structure forpressing the opened seam, and means for feeding the cloth thereto andconcurrently opening the seam for pressing by said structure comprisingmeans for feeding the layers in diverging paths to bring the line ofstitching into the plane of one or said layers, means for restrainingthe seam flap of the other layer in substantially its original planeduring said feeding movement, and means for turning the seam flap ofsaid rst layer through suhstantialiy l80 during said feeding movement.

le. The method oi opening seam flaps disposed outside the line cistitching joining superposed layers oi material which comprises movingthe portions or" the siiperposed layers inside of the line or" stitchingsubstantially parallel to each other in opposite directions each havinga com- 'ponent normal to the line oi stitching.

l5. The method of ope ling seam aps disposed utside the line ofstitching joining superposed ci material which comprises feeding thematerial in a direction substantially A rallel to the `iine ofstitching, and concurrently moving the portions oi the sup-erposedlayers inic of stitching substantially parallel t in opposite directionse-ach having a component normal to the line of stitching.

CHAP-LES C. CUTLER.

